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Pruning Climbing Roses

2008-06-01T07:03:00.000-07:00

Pruning Climbing Roses

This need present no difficulty, although it is true it seems to puzzle many rose growers of some years' standing. But, as a rule, where they err is not in pruning the plants insufficiently, but in pruning them too much. While systematic and regular pruning is good for the dwarf roses, climbing varieties, as a rule, are all the better for light pruning. The best blooms of a climbing rose are produced by one-year-old growths and, theoretically, the shoots that have bloomed should be cut out as soon as the flowers are over, so that fresh growths may be encouraged to take their places. This is certainly correct advice,, but some sorts are so accommodating that the removal of the older growths may often be dispensed with. They are found among the wichuraiana varieties. These bloom so freely, even from the side shoots that form on the two- and three-year-old stems, that it is a pity to cut them out as long as there is room for them. Of course, preference is always given to the youngest, and it is unwise to crowd the growths together, or in aiming at getting a superabundance of blossom the grower may find that unhappily he obtains none at all worth having. Thus, while liberties may be taken with the Dorothy Perkins class of rose that would lead to disappointment with other kinds, it should not be forgotten that no rose will bloom well if its growths have not a fair share of sunshine and fresh air. Here are the names of a few that may be neglected for two or three years so far as pruning is concerned and be none the worse for it, and in the garden of the inexperienced grower they may conceivably be all the better:-Dorothy Perkins and its first cousin, if not its sister, Lady Gay, Auguste Barbier, Alberic Barbier, Tausendschon, Minnehaha, Hiawatha, White Dorothy Perkins, Jersey Beauty, Elisa Robinson, Gardenia, Lady Godiva, Joseph Billard, and Edmond Proust.
Climbing roses belonging to the multiflora class, of which Crimson Rambler is a type,- are not to be treated so cavalierly in the matter of pruning. There is a great difference in the quality of the blooms produced by one-year-old growths and those of greater age. The shoots of the previous year's growth yield fine flower bunches direct from the main stem, but all other growths bloom only from comparatively weak side shoots, and their flowers are not to be compared with those from younger stems. It is thus not wise to take liberties with Crimson Rambler and its near relations, or they will retaliate by rewarding the gardener in niggardly fashion in the matter of blossom. Let me name a few of these near relatives so that the reader may be forewarned, and treat them with the respect that they at any rate seem to think is their due. Some of the most familiar are Aglaia, Blush Rambler, Crimson Rambler, Electra, H61&e, Leuchtstern, Mrs. Flight, Philadelphia Rambler, Psyche, Rubin, and Waltham Rambler. " Cut out the old, train in the new " should be the grower's motto in dealing with these.
I must just say a word about the pruning of the Noisette roses, for they need considering separately, and among them are such favorites as William Allen Richardson and Reve d'Or. They are not so adept at producing fresh vigorous shoots from the base of the plant as varieties of the two classes just mentioned, and therefore the older shoots must be treated with greater consideration than usual, since when there are few to replace them we must needs make the best of those we have. As a rule, if, well planted and hard pruned the spring following planting they grow vigorously enough for the first two or three years ; afterwards an opportunity is usually offered to the practiced pruner to give proof of his skill. This he will do by bending down some of the strong growths that have assumed a perpendicular position, by shortening others to within a few inches of the ground, and by seeing that all shoots are spread out as much as possible. Everyone must have noticed that all plants grown against walls (and it is often as wall roses that the Noise varieties are valuable) show most vigor at the top.. If this state of things is allowed to become too pronounced it must ultimately mean that the base of the plant gets bare. Noise roses other than those I have mentioned are found in Celine Forestier, Marechal Niel, Fortune's Yellow, Lamarque (all needing the shelter of a warm wall facing south), Alister Stella Oray, and C. Kuster. So much, then, for pruning the roses that are commonly grown. What I have not made plain I hope the accompanying sketches will do. I am trusting to them to make up for my shortcomings in description. There is really not very much to say in respect of the other classes of roses that are comparatively rarely grown that would interest the average amateur. They nearly all need similar treatment, which is, that you cut out some of the older growths occasionally in late summer when the plants have done flowering, and at the spring pruning, which is practiced in late March, you cut back about half-way each remaining shoot.

Pegging Down Roses

2008-06-01T07:02:00.000-07:00

There are exceptions, as may well be imagined, among the wonderful variety that is found in roses at the present day. The first exception is found in those varieties that make vigorous growth even when hard pruned; this would seem to indicate that the orthodox method is not for them. Neither, in fact, is it suitable. If grown in a bed or border away from wall or fence, the proper way to treat them is by means of what is known as " pegging down." This, rendered plain, signifies that instead of being cut back in March, the growths of the previous year are scarcely, if at all, shortened (although if the tips are soft they are cut off), and they are secured to the ground by means of pegs. This is easily accomplished by tying a piece of string to the end of the shoot and tying this to a peg stuck in the soil. This miniature rose arch will be one mass of blossom in summer. Each bud will produce a bloom or bunch of blooms according to its habit. The grower proceeds in autumn to cut out the growths that have flowered, so that fresh shoots may have it all to themselves. They, too, are treated in the same way the following spring; thus in roses of this type there is a constant succession of young growths of great vigor taking the place of those that have given their bloom, and each year's supply is pegged down in March. There is no danger of the supply giving out if the old shoots are regularly cut out when the flowers are over. Such roses as these take up a lot of room, and it is useless to grow them in the same bed with others of ordinary vigor, for the latter will be simply smothered. I know this from unfortunate experience, and as my garden is of limited extent ' I gave up growing them in a rose bed, and now have them against a 4 or 5 feet high fence. A few sorts that I have found need this treatment are Frau Karl Druschkil Hugh Dickson, Mrs. Stewart Clark and Clio. But one may peg down any rose that makes unduly vigorous growth if one wishes to have plenty of blossom and there is the necessary room at disposal.

Pruning Bush or Dwarf Roses

2008-06-01T07:01:00.000-07:00

Pruning Bush or Dwarf Roses -And now to the pruning of roses that are not newly planted. I warn those who are not interested that it is a complex subject, but if it is any inducement to the reader to read on, I will be as brief as possible, if only for my own sake, for the printer is clamoring for "copy," and, alas! How, and where shall I begin? What does the amateur first want to know when he is told how to do anything in the garden ? Why, he wants to know when to do it. Happy idea ! The best time to prune all roses that are commonly grown as bushes is, in the southern and south midland counties, the third week in March. An exception is made in the case of Tea roses, the pruning of which is deferred until the first week in April. But nowadays, Hybrid Teas and the true Teas are so much mixed up that even the rose expert-and by this I mean the professional who grows nothing else but roses-even he is not sure to which class some of them belong. In proof of this I could mention several roses that are classed in one catalogue as Teas, and in another as Hybrid Teas !. I mention this because the true Teas are not so hardy as the crossbred or Hybrid Teas, and while one may not prune the true Teas until April, the others are pruned in March. But perhaps this is a futile point and not worth laboring. In the northern and north midland counties roses are pruned a fortnight later. In the descriptive lists given at the end of this chapter will be found the names of numerous roses for the . amateur, and in many cases particulars of the required pruning are given, so . that here I need not enter into details of the varied pruning suited to different sorts. This knowledge, indeed, is only to be acquired by a wide experience among the different classes of roses, so I shall confine myself, to. an explanation of the principles and practice of rose pruning generally.
Let us first consider bush or dwarf roses ; those most commonly grown in this form are Hybrid Perpetuals, Hybrid Teas, and Teas. It is among these classes that the amateur will find the best roses for garden display and for cutting. Apart from a knowledge of the characteristics of each variety, which I cannot here attempt to convey, the pruner should first acquaint himself with the habit and manner of growth of each sort. Some grow much more strongly than others ; some grow erect ; others are inclined to spread, and so on. Such an acquaintance will give the reader a clue as to whether he must shorten the shoots little or much. In any case, the first care is to cut out all growths that are soft and bend easily to the touch ; these are quite useless. Then, all thin and weak shoots that obviously can never bear a decent bloom are to be cut out, and those that have grown towards the c6ntre of the plant are either cut out or shortened to a bud that points in an outward direction. If . they can be spared, they are cut away altogether. The experienced rose grower aims at keeping the center of his plants open, and this is accomplished by cutting every growth to a bud that points away from the center. This is quite one-of the most important items the pruner has to bear in mind, and makes all the difference between good and bad pruning. Then comes the great question of, How long shall we leave each growth? It is much more easily asked than it is satisfactorily answered. Something depends upon the -aims of the grower. If he likes to have a tidy rose garden with each shoot more or less in its proper place, and to have. fewer blooms of good quality rather than many blooms of fair quality, then all growths of, say, the thickness of a lead pencil or the little finger, are cut to within 3 or 4 buds of the base. - If quantity rather than quality is the end in view, then such growths may be left 6 or 8 buds long. In plain words and figures , I cannot get nearer to a precise explanation of my point; in fact, I feel I am rather foolish to attempt so much. But having done it and having no eraser at hand, I will let it go, trusting to the intelligence of the reader to make up for what I am lacking in clear description. Growths that are not so thick as a lead pencil are cut back to within two buds of their base. In this case it does not matter whether you want many or few flowers, for you may think yourself lucky to get any at all ! If you are fortunate enough, by good cultivation, to get growths on the roses to which the pencil standard does not apply then, if you cannot by the law of averages judge how long to leave them, I advise that you call in the nearest qualified gardener to help you out of the difficulty. These remarks apply to the Hybrid Perpetual and the Hybrid Tea roses. The pruning of the Teas is so simple as scarcely to need doing at all. Not to continue in a paradoxical strain, they are generally so well pruned by the winter that the gardener's knife is scarcely required. The stronger shoots are cut to within four buds of the base, and the weaker growths to within two buds. If as many blooms as possible are wanted without regard to size and form, then the strongest may be left two or three buds longer. But I would strongly advise the amateur who values the expressed admiration of his friends and really wishes to see his roses at their best, to prune hard rather than leave the shoots too long. It is certainly a case of " spare the knife and spoil the rose " so far as most of the roses commonly grown are concerned. Light pruning, as a rule, lays the foundation of a rose that is bare at the base and full of weak, spindling growths at the top. It certainly does so if the grower does not prune hard the first year or two. All things considered, I shall pose as an advocate of hard pruning, for I have found that the average rose lives longer and gives more blooms worth having than a rose that is lightly pruned

Winter Protection

2008-06-01T07:00:00.002-07:00

Winter Protection-Then comes the question of protection, which I am convinced is made too much of, so far, at least, as concerns gardens in the southern counties. I live in Middlesex, and I never protect any of my roses. Out of the many I have from time to time planted I can only remember losing one. Of course, if I had given the plants adequate protection I should not have lost even that one, I imagine some " protection " enthusiast exclaiming. But I submit that my experience makes out a very good case for " nonprotection "-with no political significance, I protest ! Those who have the fortune to live in the cold northern counties (the very mention of which fills me with uneasiness, so long have I lived in the south !) should protect there Tea roses, but all the Hybrid Perpetuals and most of the Hybrid Teas are quite hardy. At least, there is no reason why anyone should take any risk, for it is the simplest thing in the world to protect one's roses. There is no need for any of the elaborate methods often advocated; a little heap Of soil 3 or 4 inches high, around and among the lower branches, is all that is required. Readers may well cry " shame " that I do not even take so simple a precaution to protect my own roses rather than run the risk of losing even one; and while that censure is perhaps well deserved, I protest that I am so busy writing about roses in the winter that I am apt sometimes to leave them to look after themselves. And I make bold to say that it would be all the better for many other roses if they were similarly treated.
The surest way to weaken a rose is to coddle it. Many of those who protect their plants with bracken, straw and other material, leave these about the plants until late in spring, with the result that the roses start into growth earlier than they would otherwise do, and such growth as they make beneath the seductive covering that gives them a dangerous and unnatural warmth is soft and sappy and falls an easy prey to the least frost. And when is the rose . grower out of the wood so far as late spring frosts is concerned ? justly we may term this winter protection a " wolf in sheep's clothing," especially so far as the inexperienced gardener is concerned. And why go to this trouble when mother earth is all they need, and when nothing is better or even so good for them ? Even I, who would seem to hold a brief for garden soil as if it were almost to the ground in the month of March following planting. I believe, too, that most amateurs in their heart ' of hearts know this as well as the professional, but they have not the courage to put the precept into practice. At any rate, they have been told times enough. Anyone with a knowledge of the likes and dislikes of roses has doubtless had the pleasure of advising a friend as to the method of pruning his roses the first spring after planting. You find that he has cut bush roses back in the orthodox way; but the climbers, those with nice long growths that seem. to say, " Ah ! just leave me alone, and I promise that you shall not be disappointed " -with those it is different. He has listened to the siren's voice, he has started on that seductive short cut to Elysium. Naturally you expostulate with him, you argue, and finally threaten his roses will all the evils to which roses are heir. But no, he has heard the entrancing call, he is enraptured, by the charm of the dreams he has dreamed, and all entreaty is vain. Since he will do so, he must tread the path, which, alas! so many have trodden-I am not ashamed to confess that I am found among the number-that leads without delay to disillusion. You are told in a more or less shamefaced sort of way that, " I thought I ought to have cut them harder back, don't you know; but then I was not quite sure." And, knowing better, you interpret this as really meaning that the gardener knew that the roses ought to be cut to the ground, but that he could not bring himself to do it. How much wiser would he have been to go away for the day and commission the jobbing gardener to come in and cut off not only the heads but also the legs also of all the newly planted roses. The jobber would have had no scruples about doing it, for the more cutting the untrained worker can do the better he is pleased, as a rule.
But let me to the point, and say that every growth of every rose you plant between November and March should be cut to within three or four buds of its base about the last week in March or the first week in April. As a -preliminary, the growths may be half cut away as soon as they are planted. I have one crumb of comfort for the tender-hearted rose grower. If it -does really go seriously against the grain to treat the plants in this way, then all those that belong to the wichuraiana class may be more leniently dealt with, although, personally, I treat them all alike,. I am afraid I shall need at least a paragraph to explain all that is denoted by that fearsome word " wichuraiana -a word that, though used glibly enough by gardeners and garden writers, is more often than not misspelt. I have made sure of that extra " a " before venturing on this mild criticism ! The original rose called wichuraiana is a charming Japanese creeping kind with very long, slender growths and pretty little white blossoms, and by cross-breeding with some other roses distinguished by large flowers of rich coloring, Dorothy Perkins and many others have been evolved. They are commonly referred to as wichuraiana roses. Well, these make such remarkably vigorous growth with little or no attention on the grower's part that it is not necessary to cut them hard back to induce them to grow strongly. And there is the whole case in a nutshell ! One may leave the best growth almost its full length, and shorten all others by about one half. So much, then (and it is much more than I had intended), about pruning newly planted roses.

Planting Roses

2008-06-01T07:00:00.001-07:00

There is probably more varied advice given on the planting of roses than on any item of gardening work; the soil preparation, which is a necessary preliminary and may be considered in connection with it, is the subject of even more contradictory direction. Rather than attempt to weigh the possible disadvantages of one method with the possible advantages of another, it will be more to the point, I think, if I give my own experience and my own methods, for they have for some years given me most satisfactory results. My soil is ordinary garden loam-that is to say, it is the kind of soil one would expect to find in any fairly well tilled garden. It is neither very heavy nor very light, although of course clay preponderates; otherwise it would scarcely grow roses. The method I adopt is a simple one. I do not trench 3 feet deep, as is often advised. Not for the reason that I underestimate the value of trenching, but for the very human reason that full trenching is hard and heavy work, and that a less elaborate method gives good returns. I like to do my own digging, then I have the satisfaction of knowing that it is well done or, at least, done to my liking. In preparing a bed for rose planting I first of all take out a trench 18 inches deep and 2 feet wide across one end of the ground. The soil at the bottom of the trench is then turned over with a fork. We thus get some 2 feet depth of tilled soil. The top " spit " of the undug soil is then turned into the trench ; the second " spit " is also turned into the trench upon the first " spit." Thus, to use an " Irishism," we have proceeded one step backward, a new trench having been opened. The, soil at the bottom of this is forked over. It may be worth while to mention that in digging over the first " spit " the worker faces the open trench ; in turning over the second " spit " he works sideways to it ; so, too, when forking the soil in the bottom of the trench. There is really nothing more to tell except to say .that the worker " proceeds backwards " until the end of the plot or bed is reached. The last trench is filled with the soil that was taken out in making the first trench. This, by the by, should at once be placed at the end of the ground, so as to save a second removal.
The question of manuring is one of importance to the welfare of the roses. There is no doubt that farmyard manure is the best stuff for digging in the soil when preparing for planting, and it is best placed below the second "spit " that is, immediately upon the forked-up soil at the bottom of the trench. When farmyard manure is not to be obtained readily-and near towns it appears to be difficult to procure the best substitute is basic slag. This may be conveniently applied after spreading it over the surface at the rate of 1/2 lb. to each square yard, and then digging it in dig the bed. In any case, whether farmyard manure is used or not, basic slag is an excellent fertilizer to apply in autumn; it is a slow-acting manure, and the plants will derive benefit from it the following season.
The actual planting presents no difficulties. The chief points to bear in mind are to dig a hole large enough for the roots to be spread out in it, to plant at such a depth that the point where the plant was budded-the junction of stock and scion-is covered with about 1 inch of soil ; first to soak the roots in a pail of water or puddled clay for several minutes, and to cut off all broken and bruised root ends. It is most harmful to leave the plants lying about when waiting their turn to be planted; they should either be placed in water or covered with soil. The root fibers so quickly dry up and perish when exposed to the air even for a short time. Finally, it is necessary to make the soil firm about the roots. It follows from this that planting cannot be done when the ground is wet ; neither is it wise to plant when the ground is dry, as it sometimes is in October. As to the time of planting, early November is the best of all. However, rose planting may be carried out successfully from the middle of October until the end of March or early April, but not later when the plants are from the open ground. Roses from pots may be planted at any time of the year, though preferably not later than May, since the roots are not disturbed and the plant receives no check.
If the removal is carefully carried out one may shift even large roses from one part of one's garden to another without their suffering, providing they are transplanted, say, not later than the first week in November. I have shifted 6 feet high plants of Hugh Dickinson from a bed for which they proved too tall, planting them against a fence without even a shoot shriveling When bought plants are put in, severe pruning is invariably necessary the following spring. Some growers advise covering the rose beds with manure in autumn when planting is finished. Others, and I am among. the number, think a covering of manure in spring preferable. I give a coating of farmyard manure 'as soon as pruning is finished, which is usually about the first week in April. This is forked just beneath the surface. The roses receive no further manure, except occasional dressings of fertilizer during summer.
There are many excellent special fertilizers on the market, as, for instance, Clay's, Guano, Wakeley's Hop Manure (which, by the by, is an excellent substitute for farmyard manure), and others. Tonks' manure is especially beneficial to roses. It is compounded from a prescription formulated by the late Dr. Tonks, and may be purchased already made up. Those who like to mix their own may care to know the ingredients, which are as follow :-Super phosphate of lime, twelve parts; nitrate of potash, ten parts; sulfate of magnesia., two parts; sulfate of iron, one part, and sulfate of lime, eight parts. This is applied in early spring at the rate of one pound to the square yard. Tonks manure is best applied in February. It is scattered on the surface of the bed, and then turned in with a fork.
It may be well to remind rose planters how necessary it is to secure standards and climbers to their stakes or the wall immediately planting is completed. November is notoriously a windy month and, as I know to my cost, many shoots may be broken off if they are not made fast to their supports. It may be said that I do not practice what I preach; but even supposing this to be the case, surely it is no good reason why I should not give others the best advice. It is true that I have neglected always to observe the rules that I now give for the guidance of others; but have I not paid the penalty ? I would parody the old adage and say that, " A tie in time saves nine," but as a matter of fact it does much more, it saves a rose from disfigurement and possible destruction.

All About Roses - C. Simone

2008-06-01T06:57:00.000-07:00

\GIVEN a writer with a willing pen, a day of June, a garden across which the soft wind comes full of the mingled scent of rose blossom-the delicate fragrance of the Teas, the deep scent of the full colored Hybrid Perpetual's and the old garden roses such as Cabbage, Provence and Sweetbriar, and the aromatic odor of the Musk Rose, as sweet as in far Himalaya-these, and an arbor with its face to the flowers and leaves and its back to the sunshine, and what realms of romance are not readily conjured up! One's thoughts are carried to the early years of the rose, to the lands of its youth, even to the Garden of Gethsemane, where, now as then, the rose blooms on sacred soil. To ancient Greece and Rome, where the rose was ever cherished by the people, " in their joys and in their sorrows the rose was their favorite flower." Nero is said to have expended at one feast 30,000 Pounds in roses; 11 a nice little order for the nurseryman " is Dean Hole's characteristic comment. Our thoughts are carried to' far China and Japan, home of the lovely creeping wichuraiana Roses that have given us such a favorite as Dorothy Perkins; to Syria and Persia, even to the lands of the midnight sun. What tales the rose could tell had I space to act as spokesman!
It would seem as though the entire world and his wife was growing roses nowadays; and how better can spare time are spent? Rose growing brings fresh beauty into sordid lives, and intensifies the interest of those that are already full. Chance moments snatched from busy days, long hours from those of leisure, all are repaid in full and with compound interest, not in coin of the realm, but in an increased appreciation of the beautiful, brought home, perhaps, to those who have never felt the magic attraction of flowers, and in steps directed to a closer communion with Nature. For is it not true that many can trace their love of gardening, which, rightly regarded is no more, no less, than a practical demonstration of a real abiding love for flowers, from the time when the rose, the queen of flowers, made her first appeal? With some, indeed, the rose was not only the first, but is still, the last and only love. When the late Dean Hole, whom. we may regard as one of the most ardent and constant of rose lovers, first fell under the spell of the flower, he tells us that, " I dreamed about roses that summer's night, and next morning hurried over my early breakfast that I might canter to the nearest nursery." Many of us have been equally fascinated, and while nothing else has been able to drag us from our beds at six o'clock in the morning, the rose has done it, and many of us now regard it as the most natural thing in the world that our roses should be the first care at the beginning of each new day.
In rose growing, as in growing everything else, one has to begin at the soil, for it is the soil that nourishes the roots, the roots that feed the leaves, the leaves that support the blossoms. "Take care of the soil," might I say, " and the flowers will take care of themselves," if you " take care of " that unwelcome little grub that comes with the coming of spring! But let us. write of pleasant things first, though not counting our roses before they bloom. Why should not soil preparation and planting be considered among the pleasant things of gardening ? The gardener who approaches these prosaic tasks with a mind rightly attuned will dream dreams of bursting buds and wide-opening blossoms; there will be soft showers and bright sunshine for him, even though a pall of gray obscures the heavens and a chill wind makes face and fingers tingle. For whatever may be the actual conditions that obtain, they will but serve to heighten the contrast between the real and the unreal, and render anticipation still more delightful. The gardener has an advantage over many practical workers, if he is an enthusiast, in that the pleasant shadow of the future hovers always over the present, the glamour of the unseen veils with a rose-colored cloak the trials and difficulties of the moment. And if the reader would like to have these pleasant dreams without the sharp contrast (though this, I assure him, makes them all the more real), then let him have the digging and planting done by a jobbing gardener who, whatever his qualifications for the work, and they vary greatly, may occasionally be trusted to do it with some appreciation of its importance if not of its possibilities. For the reader's own sake I trust if he is able he will do his own planting, for the gardener who entrusts his planting to another is likely, sooner or later, to form, one of that already fairly large number of people who find gardening disappointing. And why? Simply because they leave to others that which they should do themselves. Everyone must have felt a pride in homeraised cuttings or seedlings; and what is pride but the outcome of love, fond and real ? Only, as a mother with her children, does the gardener come to know and to love his plants and flowers when, from planting to blossoming, he and he alone has tended them. The longer he gardens the greater will be his love for the flowers he grows. Let us, then, plant our own roses and for a time relapse into the prosaic and practical, for in plant growing, full flower beauty waits only on those who till the soil.

M Y F R I N D S

2007-12-06T13:38:00.000-08:00

?????

2007-12-06T08:20:00.001-08:00

I'm ordering 10 of Jasminum Sambac 'Maid of Orleans' for my father's Birthday party. It's our national flower (Philippines). The party is in Queens, NY. Will the plants be safe to ship? Could you tell me if they will be in bloom?
We do ship Sambacs to NY, and they are OK. However, it's always recommended to monitor the weather.Make sure the plants have at least a few days indoors to adjust from shipping stress before your party - for better bloom. In fact, 'Maid of Orleans' jasmines are blooming all the time, it's just sometimes they have more flowers: they keep blooming heavily for 3-4 days, then it looks like they take a "rest" for a few days (less flowers), then again produce a "splash" of flowers. So it' really hard to guess their "mood". However, the big plants that we ship have both flowers and buds, so I hope they won't let you down. Of course it's better to ship them beforehand, I would suggest 1-2 weeks before the party. Just make sure in NY they keep them on windowsills - the more sun, the heavier the bloom. A sunny (southern) window exposure will be perfect. Filtered light is OK too, as long as it's bright.The flower of 'Maid of Orleans' is very tender and fragile and lasts only a day or two, so for sure you'll lose most of opened flowers during the shipping. So you will have to wait till next bloom "splash". So the sooner you get them to the destination location - the better, as long as the plants will have enough of SUNLIGHT to produce flowers before the party.
Which of your three Sambacs are the best, easiest to care for with most production?
'Maid of Orleans' is the easiest. Although it has single flowers, and the flower lasts just a day or two, but it blooms constantly, fragrance is wonderful. It's flowers are the best for jasmine tea (we make it all the time). Also, this variety tolerates shade the best (even deep shade!). Besides, it has more "climbing" habit (of course you may keep it srubby if you trim it). We have this plant covered the wall by our bedroom window (plant on the left):
'Grand Duke' has beautiful double flowers, but they are only on tips of a branch. It needs more sun for more bloom, but also tolerates some shade.'Belle of India' has long double petals, and it's also good for tea. Needs more sun, too.
Does the Maid of Orleans need a trellis or will my courtyard wall alone do?
Maid of Orleans is the most fast growing Sambac, I like it myself the best, because it forms a very attractive shrub or vine. Flowers are not as fancy as other Sambacs, but also very fragrant, and they are what they make jasmine tea out of. It has the greenest and prettiest foliage, too. Maid of Orleans makes a vining shrub unless you prune it regularly (in that case it will be a nice dense shrub). The branches get as long as 10", but they are hard enough and don't need much support (unless they grow too long). We have it by the wall at our window (see picture above), and I just have attached couple branches to the wall - it was enough.
Can you give me information on growing Sambacs? Should the Grand Duke be planted in a pot? I live in zone 9B.
All Sambacs are tropical plants and they might die if you have even a light frost in winter. So we recommend you just to plant them in 3 gal pots, that should be fine. Both full sun or shade is OK. Fertilize regularly, and make sure to use a good potting soil (with lots of organic matter like peat moss and humus).
What kind of soil do I need for potting Jasmine Sambacs and Cestrum Nocturnum?
Read about potting soil and fertilizers .
I noticed the buds of Belle of India plants to open early instead of maturing to bigger size buds before blooming. I was wondering why are they blooming into a flower pre-maturely? . When the plant arrived from your nursery it was full with big buds and they bloomed into fuller flowers with lot of fragrance. I am wondering where am I going wrong?
There could be a few reasons:1) Do not over-fertilize. We apply slow-release fertilizer (granulated) - 3 months release. So we apply a table spoon every 3 months.2) Do not over water. Sambacs prefer to be on dry side. Underwatering is better.3) For bigger flowers, they need plenty of sun.

A few notes about Jasminum Sambac and Maid of Orleans in particular

2007-12-06T08:17:00.000-08:00

I had once a Jasminum Sambac 'Maid of Orleans', and to my experience, it is the less hardy of all Sambac cultivars. I had a cutting, and bloomed readily after rooting, indoor of course ! But to my guess, 'Maid of Orleans' needs a long period of regular heat, with a small thermal amplitude between day an night and a good hygrometry. Protect it from the winds, as they can cool down temperature very fast and 'hibernate' the plant, as colder temperatures are a great inhibitor to blooming.
A key to induce blooming with the species Jasminum - and particularly to Sambac is Long days, the longer day the better chance to bloom. So September, in our lattitudes may be the ending of blooming season for this species.
I would suggest to place it indoor, as you will have to anyway. Bear in mind that a cold night can kill this plant, as it happened to me. 10°C, and you can say goodbye to your baby Sambac...
Try to give it supplemental light / heat / hygrometry and it shall bloom.
Sometimes, a temperature falloff, especially any brutal change can stress the plant, and inhibit bud developpment, causing the bud to abort or look awkward, and that could be the case with you.
Remember that any plant from a serious nursery is given the best condition from day to day, to make a beautiful plant with a lot of flowers, as long as they want to sell healty and eye-catching plants. But when you bring you brand new baby home, the conditions - air - watering schedule - daytime/nightime temperatures - Light intensity, Light Duration - hygrometry - feeding schedule - may be very different and can stress the plant, especially if the change is dramatic, and sudden. This stress can inhibit bud growth.
Another guess if the plant is not blooming - 'Maid Of Orleans' might be resting. It might have set up a lot of flowers before you bought it, and then the plant is exhausted. Blooming is demanding a lot of energy, and as said in a previous follow up, this rest may be part of a natural cycle of this Marvelous plant. So be patient, another key to success !
Talking about desease, in my experience, Sambac are subject to spider mites attacks, specially indoor, and these pest can harm your plant, and cause bud abortion. Sometimes a virus (?) - Maybe agrobacter tumefaciens - can cause a kind of stem cancer. in this case, the stem, buds and leaves can be ill formed, and I can't tell if there is a solution to this... it happened to me though...
Sambac cuttings are really easy to root, with or without IBA (hormone) so you may want to take a few and try to give each differents conditions of light/heat/hygrometry, and with this kind-of method of trial you might find the best condition in your area for your Sambac, and get new clones for free! Mathematically, the more plants, the more blooms at one given time, the more fragrance in your room !
Maybe you'll get to the point when you can make 'Lei', fragrant necklace, a great gift to offer to your beloved... as they do in India, especially on wedding days...
Don't misspell ! This is "Maid of Orleans", NOT "Maid of New Orleans'. This is related to the french heroine 'Jeanne d'Arc' A.K.A. Maid of Orleans (Orleans, town from the North of France). The flower might have been given her name in symbolic reference to the white purity and the holly fragrance of the flower... Anyway I guess there are still some maids in New Orleans... So I won't bother if you insist

Growing Jasminum Sambac indoors

2007-12-06T08:14:00.000-08:00

This plant is easy to grow in general. Many people from Northern States grow Sambacs successfully and enjoy the fragrance almost year 'round. The good thing for indoor culture is that Jasminum Sambac tolerates both shade and full sun and will bloom most of the year with a proper care. Of course the plant that was exposed to certain conditions for a long time gets used to them, and may get stressed after you change them significantly. For example, the plant that you kept in a shade, may get leaves burnt if you place it directly in full sun. The full-sun plant that was moved in a shade might drop some leaves. However, gradual change should be fine. Also keep in mind that the smaller the plant, the easier it gets adjusted to new conditions. On the other hand, if you are anxious about getting a developed blooming jasmine, it's probably a good idea to purchase a bigget size plant. Of course, in this case you should provide it with lots of light - as close as possible to how it was grown in our natural tropical conditions. If you cant't provide enough light and warm temperatures, the plant might stay in the same size for a very long period, and further flowering may be problematic.
Potting mix. Use only special potting soilless mix, with a large amount of organic matter, like peat moss. Potting mix must be well-drained (you may add perlite to improve drainage characteristics). Never use top soil or garden soil for potting - the roots will rot in it.
Light. All plants need lots of light for blooming, and Sambac is not an exception. If you grow it indoors at all times, keep in in a well-lit spot by the window with southern exposure. During warm summer period when temperature is above 50F, it will be a good idea to take your plant outdoors to enjoy sun and fresh air on your balcony or patio. Bright light along with regular fertilization will encourage blooming.
Fertilizer. Be carefull not to over-fertilize - it might kill the plant. It's safe to use lower concentration of fertilizer more frequently, than rare application with a strong solution. Granulated slow-release fertilizer is better for pots than water-soluable. The cooler the temperature - the less fertilizer should be applied.

Watering. Jasminum Sambac requires average watering. That means - do not water if the soil is moist. Maid of Orleans prefers to be more on a dry side. During winter months, reduce watering to once a week or even less frequent.
Humidity. Sambacs are tropical plants and they enjoy high humidity (50-80%). However, if growing them in a greenhouse, don't make it too wet for the plant, and make sure to provide a good air circulation at all times.
Re-potting. Move your plant into a new home (pot) every spring or when plant overgrows the pot. The new pot should be at least 2-3" wider than the old one. If the plant got root-bounded (too dense root ball at the bottom), make a few 1/2" deep cuts accross the sides of the rootball (4-5 cuts from top to bottom) to encourage new root growth, using a sharp knife. Add more fresh potting mix around the rootball and water well. Place the plant in filtered light for 2-3 days after re-potting.
Problems. Leaves yellowing = over-watering or over-fertilizingLeaves' green color pales = under-wateringLeaves dry on edges = under-wateringBuds drop before opening = over-wateringBuds open prematurely = over-wateringFlowers darken = too much heatNo flowers for the whole year = lack of light and/or fertilizerNo new growth for a long time = lack of light and/or fertilizerBranches become leggy = prune regularly to keep bushy shape or let go to form a vine, providing supportLeaves are too small = lack of food (fertilizer), too much sunWhite mold on stems = indicates that you keep plant in dangerously moist conditions, move it in a well-ventilated bright spot to dry.

Cultivation

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To grow these plants outdoors, you have to be in zone 8 or higher. Jasmines like hot and humid conditions during the day, and cool temperatures at night. Since frost can kill these plants, with care one can successfully grow these as house plants.
Jasminum Sambac can be grown both in full sun (forms a nice bushy shrub when pruned) or in shade (tends to grow more like a vine, leaves get bigger and darker). Perfect container plant. Use great amount of organic matter when planting (leaf mold, peat moss, humus, compost), but soil must be well-drained and evenly moist at the same time. Jasmines do not like soggy conditions.
From spring through fall, fertilize monthly with a balanced fertilizer such as 10-10-10. Tie the stems to supports and keep the soil evenly moist through the growing season. Prune after flowering to keep the plants thinned and shaped. Some branches may reach 6 to 8 ft long. Pruning also helps keep an abundance of flowers, since flowers are produce on new wood.

Jasminum Sambac Varieties 4

2007-12-06T08:00:00.000-08:00

"Mysore Mulli" is a ver close relative of Belle of India. It has slightly shorter patals than other Belle ('Elongata'). This variety is the most reliable bloomer of all sambacs. Although pale green, sometimes yellowish leaves are not the best part of the plant, the flowers are the most profuse and very strongly perfumed. It blooms practically year around, providing warm and bright light conditions.

"Arabian Nights" (Arabian Knights) is very close to Maid of Olreans, but the flowers are double, although not as large size as those of Grand Duke.

"Malichat" (Mali Chat) - is a rare hybrid, cultivated in Thailand. Flowers are multi-leveled (see picture), smaller size (1/2 inch), but very fragrant as all sambacs. In Thailand, this is the most popular variety for flower leis due to its flower shape, convenient for making garland.

Jasminum Sambac Varieties 3

2007-12-06T07:58:00.000-08:00

"Maid Of Orleans" (Mograw', 'Motiya', 'Bela', 'Mallipoo', 'Lei pikake', 'Tea Jasmine', 'Gundi Mullige', 'Sampaguita') - . The most popular of all the jasmines in the world has round white extremely fragrant single flowers which are borne in profusion. It flowers from the tips, every 30-40 days, depending on the temperature.The hotter the better. The flowers drop off within 24 hours and are replaced with more the next day. This variety is used for making Hawaiian flower leis. It's picked as buds, and sown into high priced leis. Loves full drenching of water after the soil is little on the dry side. You will discover that the clarity and sweetness of fragrance of this jasmine is unrivaled. This bushy compact plant does particularly well on windowsills, but requres frequest pruning to kepp shape. The easiest variety to grow. In Asia, the flower is used in teas and religious ceremonies. More vining habit than other two, and foliage is the most beautiful and dark green. Min. temp. 60 F. Everbloomer.

Jasminum Sambac Varieties 2

2007-12-06T07:54:00.000-08:00

"Belle of India". (Madhan Mograw) Origin: India. Another beautiful and unusual species in the J. Sambac family. With it's long slender oval shape buds one cannot but admire the flowers when open. Sweet fragrance and double pure white 1" flower makes this jasmine a pleasure to grow. The flower is used in teas and religious ceremonies. This plant needs higher temperatures and light level to perform. Requires frequent pruning for denser shape. Intermediate shape between vine and shrub. Min. temp 60 F. Everbloomer.

Jasminum Sambac Varieties 1

2007-12-06T07:51:00.000-08:00

"Grand Duke of Tuscany " ('Butt Mograw', 'Rose Jasmine') Origin: Iran. A slow growing Jasmine but grandest of them all, with the largest flowers. Up to 1.5" double flowers look like miniature roses. This tall growing shrub has Gardenia type flowers. The older plants seem to be more fascinating in providing flowers of different shapes and sizes on the same plant at the same time. A flower stays for a long time (few days) and doesn't drop off and in most cases will dry right on the plant. Same sweet fragrance of Maid of Orleans but stronger. This bushy compact plant needs a little more special attention than other Jasmines. Flower is used for tea and religious ceremonies. Requires frequent pruning for denser shape, otherwise becomes leggy. Everbloomer. Variety "Grand Duke Supreme" has yet bigger flowers and elongated leaves.

Jasmine Flower Photo

2007-12-06T05:53:00.000-08:00

Jasmine Plant Care

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Remove the weeds present near Jasmine plants.
Fertilizers should be added from time to time।
Phosphorous and Potassium should be applied in two split doses i.e once after annual pruning and again during June and July.
Tips of the plants should be pinched to stimulate lateral growth and frequent prunning.
First irrigation should be given immediately after planting and subsequent irrigation at an interval of seven to ten days.
Younger plants should be tied with the stems to give a fairly heavy support.

Growing Jasmine flowers

2007-12-06T05:32:00.000-08:00

Jasmines grow well in moist, well drained, sandy loam to clayey graden soil with moderate level of fertility.
Jasmine prefer full sun to partial shade and a warm site.
Jasmine bushes should be planted during June to November.
Jasmine Plant should be kept at least eight feet apart in order to save the later growth of the plant from jamming together.
Adding of leaf molds to the soil makes it better for the growth of the plant.
Mild fertilizer should be applied during spring.
Plenty of water should be given during summer.
Jasmine plants should be provided with full sunlight upto at least four hours a day.

Facts About Jasmine

2007-12-06T05:25:00.000-08:00

Jasmine shrubs reache to a height of 10-15 feet, growing approximately 12-24 inches per year.
Jasmine leaves are either evergreen or deciduous.
A Jasmine leaf is arranged in opposite in most species, leaf shape is simple, trifoliate or pinnate with 5-9 leaflets, each up to two and half inches long.
The Jasmine stems are slender, trailing, green, glaborous, angled, almost 4-sided.
Most of the Jasmine species bear white flowers, which are about 1 inch in size.
Jasmine oil, which is a very popular fragrant oil, contains benzyl acetate, terpinol, jasmone, benzyl benzoate, linalool, several alcohols, and other compounds.
The variety Jasminium sambac, is a clustered flower of a equally strong scent known in Hawaii as the Pikake.
Two types of Jasmine are used for oil production - Jasminum grandiflorum and Jasminum officinale.
The nectar of the fragrant flowers of Carolina Jasmine, Gelsemium sempervirens, is poisonous, although its dried roots are used in medicinal preparations as a sedative.
Jasmine flower oil, extracted from the two species Jasminum Officinale and Grandiflorum, is used in high-grade perfumes and cosmetics, such as creams, oils, soaps, and shampoos

Some Popular Varieties in Jasmine

2007-12-06T04:32:00.001-08:00

Common Jasmine, or poet's Jasmine - Jasmine officinale, is native to Iran, which produces fragrant white flowers that are the source of attar of Jasmine used in perfumery.
Winter Jasmine - Jasmine nudiflorum, a Chinese species with solitary yellow flowers, is used as a cover plant on hillsides.
Arabian Jasmine - Jasmine sambac, are used to make jasmine tea.
South African Jasmine - Jasmine angulare: an evergreen vine, which is only hardy in the coastal areas. Jasmine blooms in the summer, bearing unscented white flowers in groups of three.
Spanish Jasmine - Jasmine grandiflorum: is a semi-evergreen to deciduous vine with fragrant, white flowers, which are 1 inch in diameter.
Italian Jasmine - Jasmine humile: an evergreen shrub or vine, which can reach up to 20 feet and arch to make a 10-foot-wide mound. Clusters of fragrant, bright yellow flowers are present all summer.
Primrose Jasmine - Jasmine mesnyi: an evergreen shrub with yellow, unscented flowers, which are up to 2 inches in diameter.
Downy Jasmine - Jasmine multiflorum: has clustered, white flowers that are not strongly scented. The stems and leaves have a downy coating, resulting in an overall gray-green effect.

2007-12-06T04:32:00.000-08:00

Jasmine flowers are four-petalled, and mostly white, with some yellow flowered species. Unlike most general in the Oleaceae which have four corolla lobes ('petals'), jasmines typically have five or six lobes. They are often strongly and sweetly scented. Flowering is in spring or summer in most species, but in a few species, notably J. nudiflorum, in winter on the bare branches of this deciduous species.The common name 'jasmine' is often given to unrelated plants with pale, sweetly-scented flowers and dark green leaves, such as Trachelospermum species (Confederate or star jasmine), Gardenia jasminoides (Cape jasmine), and Gelsemium species (Carolina jasmine).

Onion Oleoresin

2007-12-06T03:59:00.000-08:00

Herbal/folk tradition - Onion has an ancient reputation as a curative agent, highly extolled by the schools of Galen and Hippocrates. It is high in vitamins A, B and C and shares many of the properties of garlic, to which it is closely related. Raw onion helps keep colds and infections at bay, promotes strong bones and a good blood supply to all tissues. It acts as an effective blood cleanser that, along with the sulfur it contains, helps to keep the skin clear and in good condition. It has a sound reputation for correcting glandular imbalance and weight problems; it also improves lymphatic drainage, which is often responsible for edema and puffiness. It has long been used as a home simple for a wide range of conditions.
Aromatherapy/home use-- Non, due to its offensive smell.
Other uses -- used in some pharmaceutical preparations for colds, coughs. The oil is used extensively in most major food categories, especially meats, savories, salad dressings, as well as alcoholic and soft drinks. It is not used in perfumery work.
Distribution -- native of Western Asia and the Middle East; it has a long history of cultivation all over the world, mainly for culinary use. The essential oil is produced mainly in France, Germany and Egypt from the red onion.
Extraction -- essential oil by steam distillation from the bulb.
Characteristics -- a pale yellow or brownish-yellow mobile liquid with strong, unpleasant, sulfur odor with a tear producing effect.
Actions -- anthelmintic, anti-microbial, antirheumatic, antiseptic, antisclerotic, antispasmodic, antiviral, antibacterial, carminative, depurative, digestive, diuretic, expectorant, fungicidal, hypocholesterolemic, hypoglycemic, hypotensive, stomachic, tonic, vermifuge.
Safety data -- specific safety data on a bed of the present -- probably similar to garlic i.e. generally non-toxic, non irritant, possible sensitization.
Specifications Onion oleoresin
Product : Onion Oleoresin
Appearance : Dark brown to lack colour , free flowing liquid with the Characteristic aroma of fresh Onion .
Description : Reddish Brown to Brown thick paste
Organoleptic Test :Slightly sweet & characteristic Flavours of Onion
Total Ash : Not more than 3%
Technical Specifications
In Water :Not less than 70% . In 50% Alcohol :Not less than 65%
Matter Insoluble : Not more than 2%
Additive : 5% Glycyrine will be added by Wt.

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